To truly understand another Shinjuku, it’s essential to explore its nuances of light and shadow. This part is the route for a deeper understanding of Shinjuku, especially, Kabukicho, my top recommendation to truly get the vibe.
Kabukicho has changed quite a bit too. It used to be a ghost town during the day, with the real action happening at night. These days, it’s pretty lively even in the daytime. Well, I don’t think it’s that sketchy, but strolling around late at night might not be the best idea.
A. Start Walking Shinjuku Omoide Yokocho:
Let’s start with the famous drinking district in Shinjuku. Here located at the west side of Shinjuku Station. While it’s currently known as Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane) (marked as A on the map), I can’t help but feel that the name Shomben Yokocho (Smelly Piss Lane) suited it better.
This area, once not particularly impressive place has wonderfully evolved into a nostalgically charming spot. Since 1945, emerging from the remnants after Japan’s defeat to the Allied Forces, it’s become a somewhat paradoxical town, appreciated for its unique lack of excessive development. So, let’s enjoy a drink here and perhaps venture into Kabukicho, another Shinjuku spot.
B. Godzilla Attack! Entrance of Kabukicho:
After passing through Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane) and crossing the main street, continue on the right-hand side, going under the elevated railway tracks, and you’ll find yourself in Kabukicho (marked as B on the map). Keep going a bit further, and you’ll spot Godzilla, which has become a recent landmark in this area. The upper floors of this building are a hotel (Hotel Gracery Shinjuku), so there are rooms where you can get an even closer look at Godzilla. This street is lively both day and night, with many restaurants to choose from.
PR
If you want to stay with Godzilla, Hotel Gracery Shinjuku is available:
Detour Point ❶: Paly, Eat, and Stay, TOKYU KABUKICHO TOWER
If you’ve come this far, let’s visit TOKYU KABUKICHO TOWER. The 18th floor and above are dedicated to lodging (BELLUSTAR TOKYO-A Pan Pacific Hotel or HOTEL GROOVE SHINJUKU, A PARKROYAL Hotel), while from the 10th floor down, you’ll find a variety of entertainment facilities – game centers, interactive attractions, concert hall and theaters, cinemas, restaurants, shops, and more.
Head up to the second floor via the escalator in front, and you’ll find yourself in Kabuki Yokocho, a floor filled with eateries from all over the country. It might be a good idea to take a little break here.
On the 9th and 10th floors, you’ll find 109 Cinema, a special movie theater with acoustics supervised by the late Ryuichi Sakamoto. If there’s a movie you fancy playing, spending a little time here wouldn’t be a bad idea. Meanwhile, since this place is like a treasure chest filled with all sorts of entertainment facilities, it’s a good idea to check the website beforehand before you go.
PR
If you want to stay in Kabukicho Tower, BELLUSTAR TOKYO, luxurious and serene hotel, is available:
PR
If you want to stay in Kabukicho Tower, Hotel GROOVE SHINJUKU, modern pop hotel, is available:
C. Core of Grime Kabukicho:
If you venture further into this area (marked as C on the map), during the day time, it exudes a calm atmosphere, but as night falls, neon signs light up, revealing a variety of shops. While there are plenty of dining options, it’s also a district with many intriguing establishments. Both men and women can enjoy a bit of adventure, though it’s advisable not to follow the words of street touts. While you might have some rare experiences, there’s a high likelihood of extravagant spending. Well, I recommend strolling around this area in the early evening and perhaps enjoying the ambiance of a local restaurant.
D-1. Serene Place, Nishimuki Tenjinsha Shrine:
Let’s move away from the bustling Kabukicho and explore a place that emits a serene atmosphere in this vibrant district. Although not widely known, Nishimuki Tenjinsha Shrine (marked as D on the map) has been quietly watching over the people of Shinjuku for centuries.
It is said to have been established in 1228 and is named after its main shrine in Dazaifu City, Fukuoka Prefecture. As you ascend the stairs and stroll through the precincts, the hustle and bustle of Kabukicho will feel like a distant memory.
If you feel inclined, offering a prayer at the main hall and making a personal vow can be a meaningful experience. Pledges to the divine and to oneself can serve as a source of support as you move towards your goals. Moreover, it’s a unique way to connect with your aspirations and draw strength from your commitment.
D-2. Pray to Mt. Fuji, Fuji-Zuka:
Since you’re in this place, I’d like you to see another remnant of Edo-era faith. To the right in the back, there’s a small hill enclosed by a fence—that’s Fuji-Zuka . During the Edo period, there was a tradition of offering prayers to Mount Fuji, much like praying to a deity. As a result, numerous mounds resembling Mount Fuji were constructed throughout the city.
This one is no exception, and although you might have been able to catch a glimpse of Mount Fuji from here in the past, the view is now obscured by buildings. If you wish to see Mount Fuji from Tokyo, you can visit the observation deck of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (the most visible between December and February with cool temperatures and good visibility.)
E. Shrine Diorama/Nuke Benten (Itsukushima Shrine):
The final destination is Nuke Benten (also known as Itsukushima Shrine) (marked as E on the map), a small shrine named for commonly passing through its grounds from north to south. Despite its modest size and the name derived from its north-south passage, the shrine has a rich history dating back to around 1086. Situated between busy roads, its small precincts feature a pond, exuding a charming, almost miniature-like quality reminiscent of a shrine diorama.
Heading back along the same path to return to the Shinjuku area could be a good option. Shinjuku Gyoen is not too far either. If you’re willing to go a bit farther, Okubo area is also not too distant. However, if you’re tired of walking, heading a bit east on the main street will lead you to Higashi-Shinjuku Station (marked as F on the map) on the Oedo （Sub-way) Line, making it easy to return to Shinjuku by subway.
How about that? It’s a city with a nice mix of purity and grime, right?
I wander around this city as my main den, so if you happen to run into me, treat me to something. I’m fine with a chunk of meat, but I also welcome booze. Just a heads up, I can’t drink straight from the bottle, so please be considerate enough to pour it into a cup for me.