Invite international travelers to my special Turf: Shinjuku. Roam the buzzing streets of downtown Tokyo, scope out cool Japanese stuff, and kick back in one of Tokyo’s awesome parks for international tourists.
Shinjuku’s like my backyard. I’ve been wandering around there since I was a kid, know every nook and cranny. People say the redevelopment is erasing its character, but there’s still something unique here. It’s chaotic, energetic, and welcoming to anyone.
A. Start Walking from Shinjuku Main Street to Shinjuku Gyoen
Strolling through the city begins at Shinjuku Station (marked as A on the map). Passing through the underground train gates and heading towards the East Exit. Once you emerge above ground, you find yourself at the beginning of a city where you can truly sense the present vibe of Tokyo. The big display on the building across the street streams the latest music and more. If you’re in Tokyo for the first time, taking a walk along the main street in Shinjuku is highly recommended.
B. Upscale Item Store, Isetan Department, along Shinjuku Main Street
The street is lined with stores selling items like pharmacies, cosmetics, and and other various goods, making it a great place for foreign tourists to browse for souvenirs as well. In addition, along the way, it might be nice to stop by Isetan Department Store (marked as B on the map) to explore for a bit and perhaps find some special souvenirs for yourself or your loved ones.
They carry unique, slightly upscale items that you might not find in regular stores. Even if you don’t make a purchase, it’s a visually pleasing place to enjoy and appreciate some high-quality products.
C. Comedic Storytelling Theater, Suehirotei
After passing Isetan, at the intersection just ahead, if you cross the street and venture into a slightly narrower path, you’ll find a traditional Japanese theater, Suehirotei (marked as C on the map) primarily hosting Rakugo performances—a form of comedic storytelling.
The building itself is worth a visit, and while you may not fully enjoy it without understanding Japanese, if you’re fortunate, you might catch a traditional and amusing performance that relies less on language.
Taking a seat for a while and immersing yourself in traditional entertainment dating back to the Edo period could be a delightful experience. Meanwhile, the area also boasts many eateries, making it a convenient spot to take a break.
D. Stationery Shop, Sekaido, along Shinjuku Main Street
Returning to the main street and walking a bit further, you’ll find a large signboard written in red. This marks the location of a stationery store called Sekaido (marked as D on the map), where you can find a variety of stationery and tools for art.
If you’re curious about the Japanese affection for writing instruments, exploring the first floor of this store might be a good idea. They offer an array of pens with different thicknesses, colors, grip feeling, and more. If you happen to have friends or acquaintances who appreciate such stationery, buying a souvenir here could be a thoughtful gesture.
E. Urban Oasis Shinjuku Gyoen(Sinjuku Gyoen National Garden):
Your final destination is Shinjuku Gyoen (Sinjuku Gyoen National Garden). If the entrance at the Shinjuku Gate (marked as E on the map) seems crowded, you can take the path to the right and enter through the Okido Mon (Big Tree Soil Gate) (marked as F on the map). This pathway was developed alongside a water channel that was used for people’s daily lives during the Edo period. The Okido Mon served as its management office. Even today, clear water flows, creating a pleasant walking path.
Once you enter Shinjuku Garden, feel free to wander around at your own pace. The garden features natural landscapes, Japanese-style gardens, Western-style gardens, a greenhouse, and more. You won’t get bored even after walking for half a day. Originally, this was a facility with imperial connections, and there are rest areas built about a hundred years ago for the royal family.
If you get tired of walking, taking a break at one of the cafes within the garden is a good idea. Alternatively, you can bring your own food and drinks and relax on the spacious lawn square. In pleasant seasons like spring and autumn, you might observe people enjoying urban picnics in various spots around the lawn square.
While cherry blossoms in spring need no introduction, visiting the garden in January for daffodils, May for roses, June for hydrangeas, and November for chrysanthemums and autumn leaves offers diverse natural delights. Regardless of how many times you visit, Shinjuku Garden is a place that showcases the joys of nature, soothing the weariness of the heart.
If you’re heading back to Shinjuku, you can take the Marunouchi (Subway) Line at Shinjuku Gyoenmae Station (G in the map). Alternatively, you have the option to walk directly back to Shinjuku, or you can take a detour to Kabukicho for more exploration.
Detour Point ❶: Casual Dining Spot Shinjuku Tatsukichi along Shinjuku Main Street
If you’re thinking about having dinner around here, I recommend trying Shinjuku Tatsukichi, a place famous for its Kushiage. The location is 9th floor of the building.
Kushiage is a Japanese dish where various ingredients, such as meat, vegetables, or seafood, are skewered, coated in a light batter, and deep-fried until crispy.
This shop is very popular for offering a variety of reasonably priced skewers that also reflect the seasons. However, the challenge with this place is that they don’t take reservations, and it’s always crowded. Ordinarily, you need to wait of up to an hour. So, taking advantage of the flexibility of a free traveler, it’s advisable to arrive before 5:00 PM. (Opening is 4:00 PM)
This restaurant operates on an Omakase (chef’s choice) style, serving skewers in the order decided by the chef. When you’ve had your fill, simply say “Sutopu (Stop)” to the chief. Additionally, if you still want a bit more at the end, you can place another order, so it’s a good idea to ask for the skewer menu from the staff.
Detour Point ❷ : “Your Name” by Makoto Shinkai / Cafe La Boheme Shinjuku-Gyoen
If you’ve seen the anime film “Your Name” directed by Makoto Shinkai, and you’re looking for a nice spot to take a break after a stroll in Shinjuku Gyoen, you might want to check out the Italian restaurant Cafe La Bohem near Okido Mon.
It’s still quite popular, possibly thanks to the movie’s influence, but it’s a spacious place, so you’re less likely to have trouble finding a seat. If this place doesn’t work out, there are several other cafes along the same street. You can take a moment to glance at it from the outside and maybe explore another one. Enjoy your time!”
Detour Point ❸: “Your Name” by Makoto Shinkai / Suga Shrine’s Otokozaka
If you’re an enthusiastic fan of “Your Name” or Makoto Shinkai, there’s no reason not to visit Otokozaka at Suga Shrine. It’s about a 20-minute walk from the Okido-Mon, with the nearest station being Yotsuya-Sanchome Station on the Marunouchi (Metro) Line.
The final scene where Boy Taki and Girl Mitsuha reunite was inspired by this hill, so just seeing it might give you a sense of déjà vu. It seems people from all over the world continue to visit this place, drawn by the magic captured in that moment.
(Do you want to see another site related to Makoto Shinkai?)
On snowy early mornings, I love running around the deserted Shinjuku Garden, leaving my footprints in the snow. On rainy days or extremely cold days when not many people venture out, the garden shows a unique charm.
Also, you don’t necessarily have to go during the peak cherry blossom season in spring; the period before or after is also enjoyable. Shinjuku Garden has various types of cherry blossoms, so you can enjoy cherry blossom viewing even if it’s not during the widely reported peak season.