Tokyo Walking Guide on Japan’s Pop-Culture, from Haruki Murakami to Yayoi Kusama

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Gonna get a bit ‘Sophisticated’ this time.
In Japan, there are globally recognized artists, and Anime isn’t the only thing representing Japanese culture, you know? I’m kinda into that world where polka dots by Yayoi Kusama are all over the place, even though it makes my eyes go all spinny, you know? But that polka dot museum building, man, it’s seriously too fancy and kinda closed off, you know?

Route from your location to A

A. Start Walking from Waseda Station

The walking starts from 3b Exit of Waseda Station on the Tozai (Metro) line (marked as A on the map).
This area is like a college town near Waseda University, as the station’s name suggests. It’s a place filled with young vibes, offering plenty of budget-friendly and hearty eateries. Speaking of which, Ramen (Chinese-style wheat noodles served in a flavorful broth) is the star around here. Many travelers seem to look forward to trying Ramen when they visit Japan, and you’ll find some of the best and classic Japanese ramen joints in this neighborhood. How about dropping by one of the ramen shops around here?

B. Which type Ramen do you like? (Located around B marked on the map)

Hakata Ramen Isshindo, Waseda, Tokyo Walking Guide
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Deture Point ❶: Hakata Ramen Isshindo

An authentic Hakata ramen joint. The signature is the milky-white pork bone broth. One cool thing about Hakata ramen is that you get a free extra serving of noodles (Kaedama) after finishing the first one! The menu also boasts a variety of other side dishes like  Izakaya, Japanese style pub or tavern. 

Deture Point ❷: Yokohama-iye-style Ramen Chigauka

This place is all about a hearty and thick broth based on pork bones. They use thick and straight medium-sized noodles. If you’re into rich flavors, this is definitely a spot worth checking out!

Ramen Yokoham-iye-style Ramen Chigauka, Waseda, Tokyo Walking Guide
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Ramen Tsukemen Takakatsu, Waseda, Tokyo Walking Guide
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Detour Point ❸: Tsukemen Takakatsu

Tsukemen is a Japanese noodle dish where cold or room temperature noodles are served separately from a concentrated dipping broth. The dipping broth is rich and flavorful, made with ingredients like soy sauce, mirin, and various seasonings. To eat tsukemen, you take a portion of noodles, dip them into the broth, and enjoy the combined flavors. It is considered spin-off from regular Ramen.
This joint also serves regular Ramen.

C – D. Waseda University

Established in 1882, Waseda University is a top-tier private institution in Japan, often regarded as a powerhouse among private universities, competing with national universities. It has produced notable figures, including politicians. While welcoming numerous international students, it has a significant number of students from China, making Waseda University well-known in China as well.

C. Shigenobu Okuma Statue

When you enter Waseda University from the front, you’ll find the statue of Shigenobu Okuma (marked as C on the map) in the back. Let’s start by paying your respects to the Okuma Shigenobu statue.
In his younger days, he contributed to Japan’s industrialization as a bureaucrat and became the first Prime Minister under the party system, laying the foundation for modern Japan. What particularly stands out is his establishment of Waseda University, a private institution aimed at promoting academic independence and nurturing free-thinking individuals. Let’s take a moment to appreciate his legacy.

Shigenobu Okuma Statue, Waseda University, Tokyo Walking Guide
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D. Haruki Murakami Library (Waseda International House of Literature)

As a writer worthy of being called the Haruki Murakami of the world, he is an alum of this university. In one corner of the university, there is a Haruki Murakami Library (marked as D on the map) featuring exhibitions that recreate his workspace and showcase his works published both in Japan and internationally. The room may seem a bit too organized, but considering his personality, it might be just right as it is. Many people know that, after graduating from university, he didn’t take a regular job and instead started a jazz café. The piano used in live performances at that café is also on display.

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If you haven’t read any of Haruki Murakami’s books yet, it is recommended to start with his early work; Dance Dance Dance.

Room of Haruki Murakami, Haruki Murakami Library, Waseda University, Tokyo Walking Guide
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Uni. Shop & Cafe 125, Waseda University, Tokyo Walking Guide
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Deture Pint ❹ Uni. shop & Cafe 125

If you’re looking to buy Waseda University-related merchandise, make sure to visit the shop and cafe located on the right side of the university’s main entrance, near the entrance to the Okuma Garden. They have various goods featuring the university’s name or logo mark.

Deture Pint ❺ Tokyo Cathedral of St. Mary

Route from your location

If you don’t mind taking a bit of a detour, consider visiting the Tokyo Cathedral of St. Mary. It was designed by the late world-renowned architect Kenzo Tange and completed in 1964. The building boasts a futuristic form that doesn’t seem to align with the traditional image of a Catholic Church, yet exudes a sacred grandeur. Interestingly, when viewed from above, it takes on the shape of a “cross,” symbolizing Christianity and making it instantly recognizable as a Christian-related facility.

Tokyo Cathedral of St. Mary, Bunkyo-Ku, Tokyo Walking Guide
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Kusama Yayoi Museum, Shinjuku-Ku, Tokyo Walking Guide
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E. Yayoi Kusama Museum (marked as E on the map)

Yayoi Kusama is a globally renowned contemporary artist, known for her distinctive works featuring polka dots and pumpkins, among others. About 70 years ago, she ventured to New York alone, where she became known as an avant-garde artist, engaging in performances and installations themed around sexual liberation. Even now, well into her 90s, she continues to energetically pursue her artistic endeavors, even collaborating with brands like Louis Vuitton. In this museum, you can explore her paintings, objects, and installations, including her latest creations. 
Additionally, admission tickets are not sold at the museum, so it’s necessary to purchase them in advance through the official website.

On the way back, you can either return from Waseda Station (marked as A on the map) on the Tozai (Metro) Line, the same line you took earlier, or Ushigome-Yanagicho Station (marked as F on the map) on the Oedo (Metro) Line . Both options are roughly the same distance. If you plan to go to Shinjuku or Ueno, Ushigome-Yanagicho Station seems to be a good choice.

It seems that Haruki Murakami is a cat person. Word has it he’s been keeping cats, but who knows if that’s still the case. I reckon loyal dogs like mine aren’t his cup of tea. Surely, when he was young, he must’ve been tossed around by some capricious lady. Hmph, Hmph!!!