If you’re gonna travel, really soak in the local vibes. And if you’re hitting up Tokyo, you gotta dig deep. Nakano’s my turf, where I grew up. You can’t claim to know Tokyo without checking out Nakano! Get down and dirty, feel the city, starting with Nakano!
When people are asked about Nakano, quite a few might mention Nakano Sun Plaza or think of it as a subculture hub with numerous stores selling Idol Goods, Manga (Comic), and vintage toys. Lately, it has also become a hub for vintage wristwatch shops.
All of these answers are correct, and Nakano is also a very convenient area. By JR, it takes approximately 10 minutes to get to Shinjuku, 20 minutes to Shibuya, 40 minutes to Asakusa, and around 30 minutes to Ginza and Tokyo Station. In general, you can reach most places within central Tokyo area in about an hour or less.
Despite being adjacent to the central area of Tokyo, Nakano has not undergone extensive urbanization, maintaining its charm as a place for people to live. The cityscape might change in the not-too-distant future, but for now, it’s a great base for enjoying tourism in Tokyo. Why not spend your days sightseeing in the heart of Tokyo and your mornings and evenings immersing yourself in the unique atmosphere of Nakano?
Yeah, I’m a Nakano expert, but if you’re in Nakano, I gotta clue you in on the must-visit spots. Don’t brush off my advice, or you’ll regret it for life!
PR
If you want to stay right in the heart of Nakano along Yakushi Ai Road, ENGAWA Nakano, a house in the middle of the city, is available:
PR
If you want to stay right in the heart of Nakano nearby Yakushi Ai Road, GIVE Araiyakushi, apartment room, is available:
Must-Visit ❶: Good-by Nakano Sun Plaza!
If you step out of Nakano Station’s north exit, you can’t miss it. Also, as you wander around Nakano, you’re bound to come across this landmark. After years of various discussions, it seems like the decision to dismantle it has finally been made. Its visible presence might only last for a few more months (as of late 2023).
It has long been a driving force behind Nakano’s culture, contributing to its status as a subculture hub. Especially, this place can be considered the heart of it all, with a concert hall leading the way for Japan’s pop music scene. In recent years, idol groups affiliated with Hello! Project have been holding regular concerts, turning it into a beloved haven for Hello! Project fans, affectionately known as “Haro-ota.”
With its unique triangular block-like structure, the clock in the front plaza, and the diverse events that brought people together throughout the seasons, the building also reflected the changing seasons of the city. While the building is still there, take a moment to appreciate its great history.
It’s been a while since the demolition was decided, but there’s still no sign of the construction starting. Maybe the God of Sub-Culture is feeling disappointed? (As of November 2024)
If you’re in Nakano, you gotta swing by the Arai Yakushi Baisho-In first. It’s where I was born, and when I was little, the folks in the neighborhood took good care of me. I’m apparently a purebred Akita dog, and it turns out I was born here after my stray mom from somewhere had me. Seems like our nutrition wasn’t great, and my mom and siblings didn’t make it, but lucky for me, I managed to pull through and thrive.
Must-Visit ❷: Araiyakushi (Araiyama Baisho-In)
This temple, founded in 1586, is one of Tokyo’s most famous temples to the extent that it lends its name to a nearby station. During the Edo period, it gained fame for miraculously curing the eye disease of the fifth daughter of the second Shogun, Tokugawa Hidetada. It’s known as a temple with healing properties for eye diseases.
As a prospering temple from ancient times, the bustling streets that flourished as a temple town still hold the nostalgic charm of the past, now known as Yakushi Ai Road. (see the following)
Must-Visit ❸: Holy Ground for Otaku, Nakano Broadway（Corp Broadway Center)
Introducing Nakano without mentioning Nakano Broadway would be impossible. It’s a holy ground for subcultures or Otaku across Japan, and for some, it has become a global pilgrimage site. For reasons unknown, recently, it has also become a gathering place for shops selling vintage wristwatches, allowing you to admire vintage timepieces ranging from tens of thousands of US dollars to hundreds of thousands of US dollars.
❸-1: Entrance of Nakano Broadway/1st Floor
Exiting the north gate of Nakano Station, you’ll immediately spot the entrance to the mall. It’s always a lively street, kind of like the gateway town to Broadway. If you head straight, you’ll reach the entrance to Broadway.
The first and basement floors of this building are your typical shopping mall, with a collection of small shops selling everyday essentials for the local community. What makes it a bit different is that there are two big game centers on the first floor. If you’re a fan of game centers, make sure to bring plenty of 100-yen coins. (Of course, there are change machines in the game centers, though!)
❸-2: Nakano Broadway 2nd Floor
First, let’s head up to the second floor. If you take the escalator right in front of the entrance, it’ll whisk you all the way up to the third floor in one go. So, if you’re aiming for the second floor, let’s use the stairs instead.
Right in front is one of the stores that made this building famous: Mandarake, with its section selling vintage toys. If you happen to be a bit older and have memories of being obsessed with Japanese anime as a kid such as Godzilla, Ultraman, and Gundam, I really recommend checking it out. You might just stumble upon the toys you wanted so badly but couldn’t get your hands on back in your childhood. The prices might be more geared toward adults now, so it might be a bit surprising!
On this floor, you’ll find numerous shops specializing in other subculture-related goodies. For instance, there are stores dedicated to cosplay costumes and figures, offering a more specific focus within the realm of subcultures.
Also you can find restaurants, and there are some shops catering to conventional hobbies such as stamps, old coins, and model trains. Taking a stroll around might be worthwhile.
Just information: there is one foreign currency exchange shop in this floor: Western Union Bank.
❸-3: Nakano Broadway 3rd Floor
On this floor, you’ll find the main Mandarake stores, packed with a mix of secondhand and vintage Manga (Comic Book), idol-related goodies, various figures, and a bunch of subculture-related goodies.
Additionally, if you venture further towards the back, you’ll stumble upon a charmingly witty store called Hakaba No Garou (Gallery of Tombs). This unique shop specializes in selling manga and anime-related merchandise from the 60s and 70s.
Lately, this floor seems to be divided into three main types of shops: Mandarake-affiliated stores, one big ordinary bookshop, and a stores selling vintage wristwatches.
Strolling past the Mandarake-affiliated stores is enjoyable, but it’s just as delightful to admire beautiful vintage wristwatches. Many of these watches make it nearly impossible to count the number of zeros in their price tags. Manga enthusiasts and watch aficionados, despite the vast difference in price, share a common passion for collecting things, creating a surprisingly friendly ambiance.
❸-4: Nakano Broadway 4th Floor
This floor is specialized in even more niche areas.
In the shop captured in the photo, they sell tin toys and extremely rare character goods created by various companies as novelty items. If you’re around 40 or older, you might find something familiar from the past.
Additionally, there are stores that handle cell drawing from beloved Japanese animation films. Don’t miss the second-hand bookstore dedicated to art and idol photography books, Japanese literature, science fiction, and the supernatural. If you have the time, be sure to take a leisurely stroll on this floor as well.
Did you know? Japan might have one of the oldest histories in the world when it comes to animal protection. About 300 years ago, during the Edo period, a Shogun prohibited the hurting or killing of dogs, cats and other animals. There was even a facility in Nakano established to protect stray dogs.
Must-Visit ❹: Memorial Statue of Inu-Yashiki (Dog Heaven)
While you might easily overlook, a series of statues has been installed on the south side of Nakano Ward Office, commemorating the presence of a dog haven in the past.
About 300 years ago in Japan, there were laws that banned hurting or killing animals. Dogs, in particular, got some serious protection. If you were caught killing a dog, humans could even face the death penalty. Right around where these memorial statues are, there used to be a shelter for stray dogs. It’s said that around 100 hectares of land were home to 300,000 dogs under protection.
While this policy was seen as putting animals before humans and considered a bit of a harsh law, recent studies suggest there was the noble idea of cherishing all living beings, including us humans. Even from a perspective of managing stray dogs, some scholars argue it might not be such a terrible law after all.
However, as soon as the 5th Shogun, Tokugawa Tsunayoshi, who pushed for relevant laws passed away, they shut down this dog haven. It might mean that they probably weren’t the best fit for the times.
Unfortunately, these monuments are under construction right now, so you can’t see them. Do you think they’ll be back once the work is done? (As of November 2024)
Must-Visit ❺: Best Leisurely Stroll Site, Nakano Central Park
If you head a bit further west from the Dog Haven, you’ll find Nakano Central Park, one of the best parks around here. It’s a great place to take a leisurely stroll or have a rest on the grass (though it’s off-limits in the dead of winter for turf maintenance). You can also enjoy a break at cafés and restaurants on the first floor of the building on one side of the park.
Many people jog around the park, so giving it a try might be a good way to stay active during your travels.
When cherry blossoms bloom in spring, it’s a common Japanese tradition for people to come out and enjoy the Sakura. But even before you reach here, cherry blossom trees line the main street, creating a beautiful scene with the road seemingly covered in a pink Sakura cloud.
This area is safe, so taking a stroll at night isn’t a bad idea either.
If you’re staying in Nakano and want to get a bit more of a feel for the current Tokyo, it’s a good idea to take a stroll down streets like the following.
In the evening, leisurely walk around, look for a dinner spot, casually step inside, and maybe have a drink – there’s no better way to experience Tokyo at the moment. Take off a bit of that emotional armor, embrace everything with joy – that’s the mindset of a seasoned traveler.
Must-Visit ❻ : Center of Buzzy Eateries, Nakano Fureai Road
This street is the liveliest district in Nakano. There’s a variety of eateries, offering Japanese, Western, Chinese, and more cuisines, along with small bars, making it a decent place to spend your early evening.
The safety is good, so walking around at night isn’t too risky. However, once it gets dark, you might encounter promoters from hostess clubs trying to lure you into their establishments. Well, if you’re up for it, going along with their invitations isn’t terribly dangerous (though not completely foolproof).
Overall, it’s a reasonably peaceful street.
Must-Visit ❼ : Unique Eateries, Showa Shin-Do (Showa New Road)
This street is a narrow alley to the east of the one mentioned-above. It also boasts small eateries, but the ones here seem a bit more geared towards locals and regulars, giving off a slightly exclusive vibe.
There are many uniquely themed places, so taking a stroll along this street and giving a try to any intriguing spots you come across isn’t a bad idea. (It’s recommended to check the another article before diving in.)
Must-Visit ❽ : Lively Shopping District, Yakushi Ai Road
This street is a lively shopping district closely tied to people’s daily lives. You’ll find a variety of shops, from those selling traditional goods to places offering souvenirs, along with a diverse range of eateries.
Taking a stroll around this area and checking out the different shops, occasionally, might be a good idea. Notable mentions include the delightful PAPABUBBLE, a creative candy store, and Nakano Kotobuki Onsen (Public Bathhouse/Hot Spring), a public bathhouse with natural hot springs.
If you’re interested in vintage clothing at Koenji next to Nakano, click here!
PR
If you want to stay nearby Nakano, Onsen Ryokan Yuen Shinjuku, Japanese taste rooms, is available in Shinjuku:
PR
If you want to stay nearby Nakano, APA Hotel Shinjuku Gyoemmae is available in Shinjuku:
It’d be awesome if you dive into Nakano and explore the different sides of Tokyo. Another suggestion is to stay in a standalone house vibe right in the heart of the city, giving you a taste of what it feels like to have a temporary home in Japan. While staying in one of Tokyo’s big hotels is cool, adding a bit of variety like this could make your experience even more enjoyable.