Let’s chat about Matsuo Basho and the spot connected to him, Senju Ohashi (Senju Ohashi Bridge). If you wanna head to Senju Ohashi, just start walking from Minami-Senju Station (A in the map) on the JR Joban Line ,Tokyo Metro Chiyoda Line, or Tukuba Express Line.
I might not be one for serious talks, but let me share a bit about Matsuo Basho, Haiku Master. Even as an ordinary Akita dog, I can’t help but be fascinated by Basho’s life. Someday, I hope to follow in Matsuo Basho’s literary footsteps and set out on a journey of my own.
Matsuo Basho Who?:
You heard of Matsuo Basho, right? He was a Haiku Master from the late Edo period in the 17th century. He’s like a legend for writing this travel diary on the journey of Tohoku (North Region of Main Island), called “The Narrow Road to the Interior.” The diary itself is pretty fascinating, but the Haikus he left in there are like these gems of Japanese culture.
The diary kicks off with something like this.
The months and days are the travelers of eternity. The years that come and go are also voyagers. Those who float away their lives on ships or who grow old leading horses are forever journeying, and their homes are wherever their travels take them. Many of the men of old died on the road, and I too for years past have been stirred by the sight of a solitary cloud drifting with the wind to ceaseless thoughts of roaming. (translated by Donald Keene)
Departure from Edo (Tokyo):
Basho is said to have set off for the Tohoku Region, North of Tokyo, feeling beckoned by a single cloud. At the start of his journey, he left us with a haiku as follows.
Kusa no to mo sumikawaru yo zo hina no ie (Japanese Pronunciation)
Even a thatched hut
May change with a new owner
Into a doll’s house
(translated by Donald Keene)
I wonder, after I set off on my journey, will this house also switch places with a family, maybe adorn it with Hina dolls, bringing festive atmosphere.
It seems to express the mixed emotions; the anticipation of embarking on a journey, the worry about the inconveniences of travel, the sadness of leaving a familiar home, and the cheerful imagining of new residents.
PR
If you want to know more about Matsuo Basho, let’s read his masterpiece.
What is Haiku?:
Understanding a verse composed in 17 Japanese characters might feel challenging at first. However, wouldn’t the difficulty ease significantly once you come to Japan, experience its landscapes and culture, and get to know Japanese people? Poetry is a string of words meant to evoke vivid imaginations in people. This extremely simplified string of words could be a challenge from Japanese culture to your imagination, don’t you think?
B. Start Walking Senju:
His first step on his journey was the Senju Ohashi Bridge (marked as B on the map) over the Sumida River. t’s about a 15-minute walk from Minami-Senju Station to Senju Ohashi, and it’s less than a kilometer. At its base, there’s a monument commemorating his departure. Nowadays, it’s somewhat overshadowed by buildings, and the scene might be a bit underwhelming compared to the lively entertainment spot it once was for the people of Edo, with various seasonal festivities.
Old Days Senju Ohashi Bridge:
You can catch a glimpse of the past through Ukiyoe (Woodblock Prints) left by Hiroshige Ando, depicting Senju Ohashi and its surroundings. You can see houses along both banks, and with many trees, it seems like it was a peaceful countryside. Senju was considered the primary post town for travelers heading to the Tohoku Region, so it might have often been the first lodging stop for those starting their journey.
Generally traveling is physical moving from familiar places to unfamiliar ones. In this process, senses are sharpen, what was once taken for granted becomes extraordinary, and what seemed strange becomes ordinary. It’s not just a physical journey to distant places; it’s also an inward journey within oneself. Basho viewed life itself as a journey, seeing the awakening of senses as a catalyst within the changing tides of time.
You have two options for your way back: you can either return the way you came and move from Minami-Senju Station (marked as A on the map), or you can continue north and head towards Ueno from Keisei Dentetsu Ohashi Station (marked as C on the map).
Detour Point ❶ Kubikiri Jizo (Neck-Cutting Jizo)
If you plan to pass through Minami-Senju Station, why not visit the nearby temple, Enmei-ji (Enmei Temple)? There, you’ll find a Jizo statue that stands nearly 4 meters tall, known as the “Kubikiri Jizo (Neck-Cutting Jizo).” This place used to be an execution ground during the Edo period, where extreme punishments such as beheading and pasting on the pillory were carried out. It’s said that this Jizo Statue was the last sight for the condemned, and although Jizo statues are believed to have a compassionate expression to protect people’s peace and happiness, considering its smile in the context of overseeing beheadings and pillory punishments might make it appear a bit different, don’t you think?
I was born and raised in Tokyo, but my hometown is in Tohoku. Following Matsuo Basho, I’d like to travel to the place where our family was born someday.Until that distant future, I’ll wander the streets of Tokyo as a self-proclaimed disciple of Matsuo Basho.