If you’re a bit fed up with the Tokyo crowds, why not check out Kichijoji in the outskirts? It could be a chill day trip with Inokashira Park and its zoo, the Ghibli Park, and Harmonica Yokocho – a lane full of eateries. Personally, none of these places really resonate with me, but I gotta say, the diversity and slightly messy atmosphere in Harmonica Yokocho gets to your heart.
A. Start Walking Kichijoji:
Start from Kichijoji Station (marked as A on the map), a suburban city in Tokyo. It’s not too far, about 20 minutes from Shinjuku on the JR Chuo Line and another 20 minutes or so on the Keio Inokashira Line. This place has consistently ranked high among Tokyo’s desirable residential areas for many years. Here offer a balance of convenience and comfort. Once you arrive at the station, let’s head towards the Koen-Guchi (Park Exit).
In front of the Koen-Guchi (Park Exit), there’s a narrow lane lined with eateries and such, and one might initially assume it’s a pedestrian-only walkway. However, you might be surprised to suddenly encounter a bus passing through. It could be a bit astonishing for someone new to see a bus maneuvering through a path barely wide enough. If you want to witness this scene, just wait a bit, and buses come through regularly. It’s a sight that hasn’t changed for decades, and well, for the residents, it probably doesn’t pose much of an issue.
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B. Entrance of Inokashira Park:
Continuing straight through the narrow street and crossing another main road, you’ll find a shopping mall right in front of you. If you proceed along the road to the right of the building, you’ll reach Inokashira Park (marked as B on the map).
Inokashira Park features a large pond in the center. About 400 years ago, during the Edo period, this pond served as a water source for the water supply system in the city of Edo (now Tokyo). The area around the pond was covered with dense, lush trees, and beyond them, there were sports fields, a zoo, and other attractions. The Ghibli Museum is also a part of the park.
If you descend the stairs and continue straight, you’ll come to a bridge crossing the pond. Alternatively, if you go left, you’ll follow the path around the pond and reach the bridge from the other side.
In Spring, the pond is covered in cherry blossoms, making it one of Tokyo’s famous cherry blossom spots.
C. Aquatic Life Intriguing for you?:
After crossing the bridge, you’ll come across the entrance to the Aquatic Life Park (marked as C on the map). Here, you can explore a variety of creatures inhabiting Japan’s watersides, including freshwater fish, amphibians, insects, and plants. There’s also a diverse collection of birds that call the Asian watersides home.
Please be careful. In addition, by using the ticket for this place, you can also gain entry to the Zoo Area.
In front of the entrance, there’s a boat landing, but unfortunately it’s currently on hiatus due to facility renovations. It’s expected to resume around January 2024. Taking a leisurely stroll on the lake in a Regular or Swan Boat can be quite enjoyable.
D. Do you want to enhance financial luck? Inokashira Benten Shrine:
Moving forward and crossing a short bridge brings you to the opposite side of the pond.
On the right, you’ll see the Inokashira Benten Shrine (Taiseiji Temple)(marked as D on the map). While it serves as the guardian deity of Inokashira Pond, the deity enshrined here is Benzaiten. She is known for her ability to rescue from poverty and bestow wealth. Behind the main building, there’s a spot where water flows from a dragon’s mouth with a basin for washing money. It is said that washing money here can enhance your financial luck. Simply place coins in the basin to wash. For bills, dipping the corner in the water is sufficient. The washed money can be used either as a protective charm or for purchasing something special for you.
E. Do you want to challenge Ghibli Park?:
Let’s head to the Ghibli Park (marked as E on the map)a little away from here. For Ghibli fans or admirers of Hayao Miyazaki, Ghibli Park is a must-visit destination.
To enter the park, it’s necessary to purchase tickets in advance, and this can be a bit challenging. If you decide to visit the park, make sure to choose your entry date and time and purchase tickets on the website on the 10th of the preceding month. It seems quite difficult to secure tickets for your desired date and time, but let’s try. If you can’t get tickets, no worries—just enjoy the exterior and move on to the next destination.
F. Children Heaven, Zoo Area:
If you are traveling with children in elementary school or younger, It is highly recommend to visit the Zoo Area (marked as F on the map). While there are no large animals like elephants, lions, or giraffes, it’s a delightful place for toddlers to interact with small animals. For instance, you can touch guinea pigs (reservation required). Although it’s currently undergoing renovations and inaccessible (expected to be completed by January 2024), you can enter the cage with Japanese squirrels, and they may come close to you, offering a charming view (wearing long pants is recommended as squirrels sometimes might attempt to climb on you).
Furthermore, towards the back, there’s a small amusement park that adds to the fun for children.
The park provides various seating areas with chairs and tables, and there are stalls selling food and drinks. However, you can also bring your own snacks and drinks, enjoying a picnic surrounded by greenery.
Detour Point ❶: Too Casual Stall? Iseya Shoten
On the way from the Zoo to the last destination, Harmonica Yokocho, there’s a lively eatery – it’s Iseya Sohoten (Principal Shop). Established in 1928, it’s a longstanding establishment that has been around since before World War II. Facing the street, you’ll see the smoke from yakitori grilling, and you can enjoy standing and eating or drinking. The aroma of the smoke as you pass by might tempt you to grab a quick bite.
There are seating areas on the first floor towards the back and on the second floor. To get to the seating area, you enter from the alley on the right side of the eatry. However, there’s usually a line of people waiting for available seats, and by the time the shop opens at noon, a long queue has already formed. It’s a reasonably priced and delicious place, but getting a seat can be challenging. So, it might be a good idea to buy some skewered yakitori from the storefront and enjoy them while walking. Of course, if you have the time, joining the line and waiting for an available seat is also a good option.
G. Intimate Dining Spot Hamonica Yokocho:
Well, well, if you’re thinking about taking a break after quite a bit of walking or looking for a place to wrap up the day with dinner, Harmonica Yokocho might be first option. It is located at the West Exit of Kichijoji Station. Similar to Shinjuku’s “Omoide Yokocho” (marked as G on the map), this place has its roots in the street stalls from about 70 years ago, during the chaotic post-World War II period. The name “Harmonica” is said to come from the resemblance of the narrow-front shops lined up to the mouth of a harmonica.
It’s a lively area with a mix of various shops offering a mishmash of cuisines, from Japanese and Western to Chinese, along with bars. While it retains a bit of nostalgic charm from its construction around 70 years ago, it has become a place where people from various countries gather, creating a mix of the past and the present.
If you head towards the main street from Harmonica Yokocho, you’ll find yourself facing Kichijoji Station. Just like when you arrived, it’s easy to return to the central areas of Tokyo, such as Shinjuku and Shibuya.
Detore Point ❷: Makoto-chan House by Kazuo Umezu
This town has been loved by many Manga (Comic) Artists over the years. One of them was Kazuo Umezu, who passed away in 2024. He’s known for creating a wide range of works, from horror to comedy to sci-fi; Makoto-chan, The Drifting Classroom, My Name is Shingo, etc.
He was also famous for always appearing in public wearing his signature red-and-white striped outfit—and fittingly, the house he left behind looks just like something out of a manga! (marked as ❷ on the map) It’s quite a sight, with bold and quirky decorations that are definitely worth seeing.
Under the roof, you’ll even spot a statue of Makoto-chan, the main character from one of his iconic comedies.
Just a heads-up: the house is located in a quiet residential neighborhood, so please be respectful and mindful of the neighbors when visiting.
Manhole Arts featuring anime designs
As you’d expect from a town loved by so many Manga (Comic) Artists, there are spots around the city where you’ll find manhole covers decorated with anime art.
If you walk around looking for them, you’ll actually end up making a nice little loop around the heart of Kichijoji.
If you’ve got the time, it’s definitely worth checking out!
City Hunter (marked as ❸ on the map)
Start your walk at the plaza in front of Kichijoji Station—the one with the elephant statue.
Right there, you’ll find a City Hunter manhole cover—an anime that many people probably know, not just from the manga but from the anime film as well.
Fist of the North Star (marked as ❹ on the map)
Cross the main street, and right in front of the building, you’ll find Fist of the North Star.
Remember the famous line, “You’re already dead”?
Record of Ragnarok (marked as ❺ on the map)
If you walk about 100 meters north along the road, you’ll find Record of Ragnarok. Since the manga isn’t finished yet, don’t you wonder how it’s going to end?”
Keiji: The Lone Samurai / Cat’s Eye (marked as ❻/❼ on the map)
If you cross the main street and head a bit west, you’ll see the roof of the arcade. Down on the right side (the north side), you’ll find a Keiji manhole art.
Doesn’t the smiling samurai look pretty cool?
On the left side (the south side), there’s a Cat’s Eye manhole art. Back in the day, lots of kids must’ve been thrilled by the cute and clever antics of the three sisters!
Yoroshiku Mechadoc (marked as ❽ on the map)
It’s a car-racing and mecha-themed anime from the 1980s—a real treat for car lovers!
Wakakozake (marked as ❾ on the map)
And last but not least, it’s Wakakozake, the story of a food-loving, sake-sipping lady. The spot’s perfect too—why not head straight into Harmonica Yokocho (marked as G on the map) for a drink?
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If you want to stay in Kichijoji, KICHIJOJI EXCEL HOTEL TOKYU, standard hotel, is available:
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If you want to stay in Kichijoji, Kichijoji Tokyu REI Hotel, standard hotel, is available:
I don’t usually go to this side of town, but when spring comes around, I sometimes get invited by my human friends to go cherry blossom viewing. Despite indulging in a good amount of drinking during the flower viewing, we always end the day with another round of cheers at Harmonica Yokocho. I end up getting quite tipsy, and there are some slightly embarrassing memories…