If you’re staying in Tokyo, trip to Hakone! It’s not Tokyo, but it’s been a go-to spot for Tokyo folks for ages.
First off, it’s packed with hot springs and has always been a top spot for relaxing. Plus, it sits right between Japan’s two big cities, Tokyo and Osaka, so it’s always been a key travel hub.
With hot springs, history, and bountiful nature all rolled into one—and super easy access from Tokyo—it’s hard to beat!
As long as the weather’s good, it’s one of the best spots to catch a view of Mt. Fuji!
A. Start Walking from Odakyu Hakone-Yumoto Station
Today’s strolling starts from Odakyu Hakone-Yumoto Station on the Odakyu Hakone Tozan Line (marked as A on the map). The easiest and most recommended way to get to Hakone is to take the Odakyu Limited Express Romancecar from Shinjuku Station. The ride takes about 80 minutes.
If you’re taking this route, it is recommended to purchase ‘Hakone Free Pass’ in advance, a discount ticket that lets you ride around easily.
If you’re walking around Hakone, staying in Hakone-Yumoto area is super convenient. And of course, most of the places you stay come with their own hot springs.
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If you’re looking for a place to stay right near Hakone-Yumoto Station, Hakone Hotel Yumoto Fujiya is available:
These days many hot spring resorts have become stylish, but when you think of a classic Onsen Town (a hot spring town), it’s this kind of charming jumble that feels just right.
As for local specialties, you’ll find things like Onsen Manju (sweet bean bun) steamed with hot spring steam, and Yosegi (marquetry) crafted from the rich wood of the surrounding mountains.
When traveling in Japan during the hot season, don’t forget to stay hydrated and keep up your salt intake. Be sure to try Umeboshi (pickled plums) (marked as ❶ on the map)!
Umeboshi are Japanese pickled plums, very salty and sour, often eaten with rice. These days, a milder version pickled with honey is also popular and highly recommended.
If you get a little hungry, try some grilled Dango (rice dumplings) too! (marked as ❷ on the map)
Detore Point ❸: Nature’s Masterpieces, Hien Falls（Smoke Falls）and Tamadare Falls (Beaded Curtain Falls)
If you’re strolling around Hakone-Yumoto, why not head out to see waterfalls? It’s pretty rare to find two beautiful waterfalls right next to each other (marked as ❸ on the map). The walk there also makes for a nice little route to enjoy the town of Hakone along the way.
Specially, on a hot summer day, standing by the falls feels wonderfully cool and refreshing.
It’s about a 23-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station. The waterfalls are part of the garden at Hakone Yumoto Onsen Tenseien (Onsen Hotel), but you’re free to enter from outside.
Hien Falls (Smoke Falls)
This waterfall is called ‘Smoke’ because of the delicate streams of water that fall like wisps of smoke. It’s amazing to think such a beautiful scene unfolds right in the hotel’s backyard!
Tamadare Falls (Beaded Curtain Falls)
If you go another 50 meters past Hien Falls, you’ll come across the next waterfall.
This waterfall is called “Tamadare”, that is a traditional Japanese decorative curtain made of beads or threads. It has several beautiful streams of water flow down, giving it a graceful and majestic appearance.
Happily, the area around the base of the falls forms a shallow pool where you can splash around. The water is so cool that it makes you forget all about the midsummer heat as you step in.
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B. Wonder of Nature, Owakudani
The most spectacular sightseeing spot in Hakone has to be Owakudani. It takes about an hour from Hakone-Yumoto Station to Owakudani Station (marked as B on the map), riding the mountain railway and then the cable car.
The crater was formed by an eruption about 3,000 years ago, and even now you can see steam rising from the rugged mountainside. The view from the cable car is nothing short of the Wonder of the Nature.
Another must-see is the beautiful scenery along the mountain railway throughout the four seasons. It never disappoints, but the full bloom hydrangeas around June-middle along the railway are truly a highlight.
Around Owakudani Station, you’ll also find exhibition halls, cafés, souvenir shops, etc., so you can spend your time just the way you like while taking in the steaming volcanic crater.
The local specialty here is the famous Black Eggs. They’re boiled in the hot spring steam, which turns the shells black. Legend has it that eating one will add seven years to your life—so you’ve got to give them a try!
Don’t worry, the inside is pure white!
C. Togendai Station, Shores of Lake Ashi
Togendai Station (marked as C on the map) is the final stop of the cable car and the gateway to Lake Ashi. From here, you can take a magical pirate ship cruise across the lake, stroll along the lakeside.
Or, just grab some soft serve ice cream and take a relaxing break at the station. The station has a restaurant with a great view of Lake Ashi, so it’s a nice spot to grab lunch or just take a break!
D. Hakone Shrine – the ultimate power spot in Hakone
If you’re heading to Lake Ashi, be sure to check out Hakone Shrine (marked as D on the map) , famous as Hakone’s ultimate power spot!
Even more iconic is the torii gate rising out of the lake—it’s a super popular photo spot, and there’s almost always a line of people waiting for the perfect shot. Get ready for an epic photo right from the water’s edge!
From Togendai Station, it’s about a 1 hour 20 minute walk. If you want to fully enjoy Hakone’s natural beauty, walking isn’t a bad idea at all.
If you’d like to take it a bit easier, you can also hop on a bus from the station (about 20 minutes).
Another fun option is to take a sightseeing boat from nearby Kojiri Port (marked as ❹ on the map) to Motohakone Port (marked as ❺ on the map).
E. Old Tokaido Road – Row of Giant Cedar Trees
A few hundred years ago, during the Edo period, Japan’s biggest cities were Osaka and Tokyo, connected by the famous Tokaido Road. Take a walk along the old Tokaido and step back in time!
The cobblestones hidden beneath the towering cedar trees make you marvel—can you believe this was once Japan’s busiest route?
Cross the wooden pedestrian bridge (marked as E on the map), wander along the path, and imagine the travelers of long ago making their way just like you. Just walk 50 more meters along the old trail and you’ll meet up with a paved road—so why not give it a try?
If you’ve had enough walking, head the opposite way from the wooden pedestrian bridge. The lakeside is just ahead that way.
Detore Point ❻: Hakone Sekisho (Checkpoint) – Controlling “entering guns and exiting women”
Still up for exploring? There’s one more place you won’t want to miss!
Step back to the Edo period and visit the Hakone Sekisho (Checkpoint), once famous for controlling “entering guns and exiting women.” It sounds strict, but it’s fascinating!
The shogunate kept weapons out of Edo and made sure noblewomen didn’t leave without permission. Travelers had to show official passes, and women often needed special clearance. Walking through here, you can almost feel the footsteps of history—and imagine what it was like to pass through this important gateway centuries ago!
On the way back, you can retrace your steps, but if you’re around the ports at Motohakone (marked as ❺ or ❼ on the map), it’s convenient to catch a bus back to Hakone-Yumoto (marked as A on the map). Of course, just relaxing at a lakeside inn is also a great option!
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Watching the steam rise up at Owakudani, I really get the feeling that Earth’s just barely hanging on in some delicate balance. Kinda makes you worry that if you stomped the ground too hard, steam might start blasting out from underneath.
And every summer, the record highs keep getting broken—makes you wonder if the planet’s going off the rails.
Hey, Humans, don’t you think it’s about time we started taking the environment seriously?