When the flags start fluttering around the Ryogoku Kokugikan, you know it’s Sumo season.
When the season of fluttering flags arrives, it just adds a bit of pep to my step. Roaming around this area, sometimes there’s a mysteriously sweet scent in the air during this season. The sweet scent wafts from the Sumo Wrestlers with their neatly tied topknots. That hairstyle is held firm with a special Bintsuke Oil, so even with all the vigorous moves on the Dohyo (Sumo Ring), it stays perfectly in place.
Thinking of sneaking into the Kokugikan again this year and catching a sumo match. Why not, right?
Tokyo Grand Sumo Tournament
Sumo tournaments are held six times a year, with January, May, and September taking place at Ryogoku Kokugikan in Tokyo. The remaining tournaments are in Osaka in March, Nagoya in Aichi Prefecture in July, and Fukuoka in November. These timings remain consistent, therefore, creating a strong seasonal connection for the Japanese people.
Origins and Rules of Sumo
Origins: The origins of sumo in its current form are traced back to around 400 years ago during the Edo period.
Notably, sumo has a ceremonial aspect dedicated to the deities. For instance, during the entrance of a Grand Champion (Yokozuna), the sacred rope (Shimenawa) adorning the sumo wrestler’s waist is the same as those displayed in shrines.
Rules: Sumo rules are quite straightforward: a wrestler loses if pushed out of the dohyo (sumo ring) or if any part of their body, except the soles of their feet, touches the ground. In extreme cases, even if the hair gets disheveled, leading to the top-knot extending and touching the ground, it still results in a loss. However, despite the simplicity of the rules, the collision of the two massive sumo wrestlers in the dohyou (sumo ring) is often described as quite impactful and is one reason why sumo is considered the ultimate form of martial arts.
How to enjoy watching Tokyo Grand Sumo Tournament
To watch the sumo tournament, it’s essential, but goes without saying, that you need to secure tickets. Typically, ticket sales start about a month before each tournament on the official website or through ticket vendors. However, they tend to sell out quite quickly, so if you’re considering purchasing tickets, it’s advisable to check relevant websites periodically.
Sumo Annai-sho (Sumo Information Desk)
Watching sumo has been a longstanding entertainment for the common people, and it’s typical to casually enjoy matches while eating and drinking. Even today, it’s common to have a laid-back approach to watching sumo, occasionally cheering for a favorite sumo wrestler while indulging in food and drinks. You can still freely eat and drink while watching, and there are stalls inside the Kokugikan selling refreshments.
However, if you’re looking for special services, it’s recommended to purchase tickets through the Sumo Information Desk (Sumo Annai-sho). The sumo information desk is a collective effort of traditional establishments, known as “Ochaya” that have historically provided meals for spectators during sumo tournaments. By purchasing tickets through Ochayas, they offer services such as guidance within the Kokugikan, catering, and arranging special souvenirs. As this website is not yet available in English, assistance from someone proficient in Japanese may be needed. While the services through Ochayas come at a higher cost, they are recommended for a special and enhanced experience.
Alternatively, similar services can be arranged through some travel agencies.