They used to say Japanese houses were made of wood and paper, but I wonder if that image still holds. Sure, the structures are mainly wood, with interiors often featuring wood and paper, but they’re not as flimsy as you’d think – they can withstand strong winds. With proper maintenance, some houses can last over a hundred years. If you want to see how sturdy old Japanese houses were, check out the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum.
It’s in the Tokyo Metropolitan Koganei Park, perfect for a stroll. Especially in Spring, it’s a good time to visit, maybe even catch some cherry blossoms!
A. Start Walking from Musashi-Koganei Station to Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum
Today’s stroll begins a bit westward from central Tokyo, starting at Musashi-Koganei Station (marked as A on the map) on the Chuo Line. It’s just a 30-minute ride on the rapid train from Shinjuku Station or about 40 minutes from Tokyo Station. Just be cautious as there are trains that don’t stop at Musashi-Koganei Station (like Special Rapid Services), so keep an eye out!
From the bus stop number 1 at the north side rotary of the station, you can hop on the number 13 bus and arrive at Koganei Park West Exit in just 6 minutes. If you don’t mind a 20-minute stroll, heading north on foot will also lead you to Koganei Park. It’s a great opportunity to take in the scenery of Japan’s outskirts.
B. Koganei Park (West Exist)
The architectural museum is located about in the middle of the park, so once you reach the west exit of Koganei Park (marked as B on the map), just follow the road along towards the center of the park.
This area boasts some large trees, so from around March, you’ll enjoy beautiful fresh greenery. Also, there are cherry trees planted here, and come March, the park will be blanketed in cherry blossoms. The cherry trees planted here are a slightly different variety from the typical Tokyo cherry blossoms you see around.
If it’s March, this is definitely a place you’ll want to visit!
Near the west exit, there’s a steam locomotive displayed, just like in the photo. If you’re a locomotive fan, it’s worth snapping a picture!
However, you can only get close to the steam locomotive on weekends and holidays from March to November.
If the weather is nice and it’s a pleasant season, let’s start by taking a stroll through the park.
C. Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum
The architectural museum (marked as C on the map) is divided into three sections; east, central, and west. As you enter the museum, located at Central Section, the first building you’ll likely see is the one in the photo, right?
This is a historic structure, Jishoin Otamaya, built in 1652 to honor the concubine of Tokugawa Iemitsu, the third Shogun of the Edo period.
C-1. Esat Section; Buildings from about a hundred years ago in the downtown area
Let’s start by strolling through the section dedicated to the downtown buildings from about a hundred years ago, located on the east side. For Japanese visitors, this area might evoke a sense of nostalgia, reminiscent of the scenery they saw during their childhood, especially for the older folks.
This building, Uemura Residence, constructed in 1927, is a Western-style structure covered with copper plates on the exterior. Don’t you think the dull green patina of the copper adds a nice touch?
This building, Kagi-Ya, is Izakaya (Japanese pub), originally constructed in 1856, with its recreated exterior dating back to around 1970. It’s a precious structure that has survived various earthquakes and wartime damage.
This is inside of the building, Kagi-Ya. It seems like there are still Izakayas like this around today, don’t you think?
A building, Kodakara-Yu, that represents Tokyo’s public bathhouses. Built in 1924, it has a dignified appearance reminiscent of shrines and temples. If there’s such a magnificent public bathhouse nearby, wouldn’t you feel like visiting occasionally, even if you have a bath at home?
In addition to above, there are relocated various shop buildings like a Soy Sauce Store, a Tailor House, a Stationery Shop, a Florist, and a Hardware Store. Back in the day, it was common for each store to offer only one type of service, and there weren’t convenience stores like today, so you can really see how the entire town used to support people’s lives.
C-2. West Section: Houses stood for over a hundred years.
At the entrance of the western section stands this building, Tokiwadai Photo Studio, which was built in 1937. It somehow feels nostalgic yet familiar, as if it could still exist today. The exterior still seems to hold up quite well even today, don’t you think?
And those large windows? They were designed to let in plenty of natural light.
This building is the residence of Hachioji Sen-nin Doshin Kumigashira (Head of Thousand Doshin in Hachioji), originally standing further west from this park, served primarily for maintaining security in the Hachioji region. The head of this household, known as a Kumigashira, was a direct vassal granted audience with the Shogun. The people under him, called Doshin, were samurai , but also engaged in agriculture and paid taxes like peasants. It was a rare position during the Edo period (1603-1867) when there was a clear distinction between peasants and Samurai.
It’s said that this house, Yoshino-Ke, was built in the late Edo period, approximately two hundred years ago. It belonged to Yoshino Family, who played a leading role in overseeing the farmers of Nozaki Village (present-day Nozaki, Mitaka City). It could be considered a representative farmstead in this area. As a notable feature, it has a formal entrance at the front, adding to its dignified layout.
The room with a Irori (hearth) is like a living room in today’s era. In winter, it provided warmth, and it was a place for chatting, and dining while warming up food. Of course, for more formal guests, they would likely be invited to the tatami room at the back. The room with a hearth is a nostalgic sight for older Japanese people, but wouldn’t you want to spend a chilly winter day relaxing in such a place?
As you enter, there’s a dirt floor extending from the ordinary entrance, with a cozy spot near the kitchen where guests can relax a bit. In the center, there’s a hearth, surrounded by simple log stools. It’s easy to imagine friendly neighbors sitting around, engrossed in conversation.
At the back, you can see the kitchen area.
In the western section, you can find buildings from before Japan underwent modernization. These houses are made entirely of natural materials like wood and paper, with roofs thatched with straw and other plant-based materials. Old Japanese buildings were really eco-friendly! While they may seem simple, they’re actually quite sturdy.
Of course, the buildings displayed here aren’t typical homes of commoners, but rather a collection of representative structures from different eras and social statuses.
Way Back
The way back is easy if you just follow the same route in reverse. The bus stop is on the opposite side of the road from where you got off. Taking the bus will take you to the final stop at Musashi-Koganei Station (marked as A on the map).
If you want to head back via a different route, you can also return from Hanakoganei Station on the Seibu Line. Just catch a bus at the same bus stop where you got off earlier, and Hanakoganei Station is right nearby when you get off at Hanakoganei Station Entrance (marked as D on the map). From Hanakoganei Station, Shinjuku is the final stop.
Walking in the outskirts of Tokyo ain’t half bad, you know? Don’t just think Shibuya, Shinjuku, or Ginza represent all of Tokyo. If you’re in Tokyo, you gotta step out to the suburbs at least once and see the everyday Japan. The rows of regular folks’ houses, little parks, discreet shrines on street corners – they might surprise you with how uniquely Japanese they are, ya know?
PR
If you want to stay nearby Musashi-Koganei, JR East Hotel Mets Kokubunji is available:
PR
If you want to stay nearby Musashi-Koganei, JR East Hotel Mets Musashisakai is available:
